LONDON — In my last column, I described how the past year had made me a more flexible cook: more democratic, less judgmental. It got me thinking generally about the way certain vegetables are described, the adjectives they are often associated with. Why is an eggplant deemed “mighty,” for example, while leeks are often prefaced with the word “humble”?
I’ve never really held up such labels, but now more than ever, as we’re all making as much as we can from the groceries we have at home, I want to create space to move beyond these distinctions. My love for